A Beginner's Guide to Buying Gear - Part One

Written by Brian Frawley

Thursday, 22 April 2010 22:15

Some of you beginners may have read Don's article on fly fishing, and now you're all hot to get some fly gear and start casting on your own.  Well, welcome to the obsession, I say.  But first, I'm betting that most of you newcomers don't have much in the way of gear, which means that you'll need to get out there and do some shopping.  And, that's a daunting venture for those of you who don't know a tippet from a hackle, or a caddis from a casting arc. Now, as for me, here's the deal: I own a lot of fly fishing gear.  A.  Lot.  And when I say a lot, I mean it -- several different fly rods in varying weights, reels, nets, waders, an insane amount of fly tying materials... the list goes on and on.  I know that Don owns even more gear than I do.  So, nowadays, when I roll into a fly shop, I really don't need anything anymore, other than maybe some fly tying material or a new fly line.  But, I've been where you all are at right now.  I've had nothing to start with, and didn't know where to begin.  I put this article together so that you all don't have to go through what I did, with years and years of trial and error just to get a good handle on what kinds of gear is the right kind of gear to start out with. Oh, and by the way: I wrote this article assuming that you've already read Don's, and so I also assume that you already have a basic understanding of fly fishing (so, for example, you should already know what a fly rod weight is, even if you don't know what kind you want just yet).  If not, I'd recommend that you click here and read that article first.  Once you're done, come on back and read this one. Fly Rods The first thing you're going to need, so you want to start here.  Can't fish without a rod.  But, there are a lot of brands out there, and a lot of different weights, with different flexibility, and it can all get pretty confusing.  So, for you beginners out there, a few things to consider before making that first purchase: Weight.  Fly fishermen talk about the weight of their rods all of the time, and while that might sound confusing, it's actually an important concept to grasp right off the bat.  The bottom line: The higher the weight, the bigger the fly; the bigger the fly, the bigger the fish.  That's it.  So, for example, a 5wt (read: five-weight) rod is perfect for largemouth and smallmouth bass, trout, bluegill, pink salmon, and most other small warm water and cold water fish.  Moving up the food chain, then, a 9wt will cover large pike, musky, salmon, and a lot of the bigger salt water fish as well, such as red fish, bone fish, striped bass, bluefish, and bonito.  In between those, a 7wt or 8wt rod is considered ideal for catching steelhead (lake run rainbow trout).  I often suggest that if you can only afford one fly rod, and you're just starting out, consider something smaller, like a 5wt; it will be a great rod to really learn with, as it will be more forgiving than a heavier rod as you're learning to cast.  Now, if you've got the cash for two rods, I might suggest that you consider a 5wt and a 9wt, as these two rods will allow you to be able to fish for 90% of any fly fishing you may ever do.  The 5wt is great for the smaller fish; the 9wt for the big ones. Flex. There are also different levels of flexibility with rods: full, mid, and tip. Full flex rods, or "slow action" rods, are rods that are very flexible and will bend significantly during a cast.  The are designed for anglers who are looking to throw very accurate, gentle casts.  As such, they are ideal for fishing smaller rivers and creeks. Mid flex rods, or "medium action" rods, have a fair amount of flexibility but are more stiff than the full flex rods.  They are the most popular fly rods, as they are very versatile.  A mid flex rod can be used to make big casts, but can also function great in smaller rivers.  People looking to fish a wide range of waters would do well to consider a mid flex rod. Tip flex rods, or "fast action" rods, are almost entirely stiff throughout it's length, with the only real flexibility occurring near the tip of the rod.  So, when you are casting, only the end (or tip) of the rod bends in any real way.  These rods are simply more powerful due to their stiffness, meaning that the rod is able to cast line further than slow or medium action rods.  A stiff rod helps you land the really big fish as well. Again, for beginners, I often suggest that if you're thinking about a 5wt, look for a mid flex rod, as it will be more forgiving to a novice caster, and will work better with lighter leaders as well.  If you're considering going with a heavier rod, such as a 9wt, consider the tip flex rod, as it will help to power your flies in windy conditions, and give you more fighting power with those big fish. Cost. You can find some decent rods for around $100, and you can make your way up the ladder all the way up to $4000 limited edition handcrafted bamboo heirlooms.  You don't have to spend an arm and a leg to get your hands on a decent rod, but you do want to make sure that you get what you want.  Stillwater Tip Number One: I always recommend that folks purchase a rod with a nice long unconditional warranty on it, like 25 years or better, when buying any rod.  It's a little extra cost, but I have found it worth it every time.  I have broken a few rods in my time, and it's nice to have a warranty that allows you to replace your investment.  With a warranty, you're also buying a little peace of mind, because chances are, you'll break a rod at some point, too. Stillwater Tip Number Two: Most shops will let you test and cast a rod in their parking lot, don't be afraid to ask to test a rod out. Fly shows are great for trying out many different rods and reels at one time, in one place! Reels Like the rods, the sky's the limit when it comes to spending money on a reel.  Anywhere between $50 for a basic starter Orvis Clearwater all the way up to an engraved Tibor that will set you back a grand or so.  The reel you want to start out with actually depends some on what rod you finally ended up with.  If you decided to go with a 5wt, the reality is that you really don't need a crazy expensive reel for that rod.  The kind of fish that you'll be angling for with a 5wt aren't going to be making long blistering runs (well, except pink salmon, but let's ignore that for a moment), so you're just going to want something simple and sturdy. If, however, you're purchasing a heavier rod, your need for a more expensive and hardy reel increases.  You hook into a big steelhead or striped bass and you'll find your reel tested as that fish takes off like a rocket, fighting you tooth and nail down the river.  That's when a nicer reel comes in handy, because you'll want a reel that will stop a truck, and not fail you at a critical time.  I fished with a guy one time who went really cheap with his reel on his 9wt salmon rod.  He hooked into a beauty, and I watched in amazement as his reel completely self destructed on the first run the salmon made.  He was left standing there in the river with a pile of broken plastic pieces in his hand, and the fish was long gone!  Lesson learned. Generally speaking, when you're shopping for reels, don't be afraid to remove the spool from the frame (or you can ask the shop employee to do it for you) and see if the reel is made up of plastic or something more sturdy.  You don't want a lot of plastic; you want metal parts hiding in there, and that's especially true for your 9wt rod.  Once you determine that your reel is strong enough to handle the fish you'll be throwing at it, you'll want to see if it's got a nice, strong drag to it.  Strong drag is the key to wearing down the big strong fish.  Play with the drag right there in the shop. How tight can you lock it down without moving the spool? Now, while reel shopping you may be asked about something called the arbor, so you'll want to know something about it because you have some choices here as well.  The arbor is the interior cylinder of the fly reel; it's what your fly line wraps around. Recent design trends have emphasized an arbor with a greater circumference, commonly called a large arbor. With large arbor reels, line memory is reduced, and the rate of line retrieval is increased. Most importantly, outgoing drag tension is decreased as your line is depleted, which basically means that your chances are better that you don't lose that sweet trophy you just hooked up on. Fishing a large arbor maintains a tighter connection with the fish, reducing slack and giving you more control over unpredictable fish-fighting conditions.  There are other arbors as well, such as the standard arbor or the mid arbor.  Again, for now, it might be best to stick with large arbor for your 9wt big game rod and a standard, or mid arbor for your smaller 5wt setup, while you're getting your feet wet... so to speak. Next week: Part Two: Line, Leader, and Flies!  Stay tuned....