There are three primary rigs that are successful for fishing steelhead, and salmon. This article is not just about how to create each one, but how to fish each as well. Chuck and Duck, Indicator (AKA Indy rig) and swinging streamers are all effective methods to use, some work better in certain situations then others. So the first one we will dive into is "Swinging streamers".

"Swinging streamers" is often associated with longer “two handed” rods, but is very capable of being implemented using a single-handed rod, and can illicit very exciting strikes. Whether you utilize a “two-handed” rod or your single handed stick, most fisherman utilize a sinking tip line system.  Two-handed or Spey rods often utilize multi head lines that enable you to adjust the “front” of the line with weighted “heads” allowing depth and current adjustments without having to change spools or complete lines.  This give the caster a lot of versatility to fish a bunch of conditions, from soft thin water, to heavy or deep runs.   Single-handed rods can utilize the same multi head system, but more commonly will use a sink tip or full sinking line. 
Leaders are usually short and stout as the strike is often hard and strong.  3 ft leaders keep the fly close to the level of the sinking tip and allow good depth control.  10 lb test is usually the lightest tippet that you would knot your fly onto a swinging rig.  Use a good strong loop- to- loop connection system to facilitate quick changes of heads or leaders.   Longer leaders can be implemented with weighted flies, but will often “trail” up in the water column and not stay at the depth of the sinking tip.
The basic approach to swinging is to face quartering downstream and cast out to your target.  Throwing an upstream mend can help get the head to sink quickly for a good drift.  Once the head has reached the depth you want to fish, you let the line tighten up and “swing” until the fly has reached the bottom of the apex of the swing.  Sometimes a strip of two is beneficial at this point to entice a following fish and it isn’t unusual at this point in the drift to have a fish slam your fly.   Hang on tight and have fun!

I fished the St. Mary's River about 7 years ago at the first week or so in August and the King salmon started to run and the atlantics were at the tail end of their spawning run. Walking precariously on the berm (the Canadian side), close to the dam, facing the main river. I would cast out, let my orange egg sucking leech sink, as the water was about 30-40 feet deep. The water on the St Mary’s is crystal clear and many different species of fish milled around the bottom. The current by the dam was not particularly fast, so I had time to count down,  allowing the fly to get deep.  On my third cast, having counted down a long count, I started a slow strip and twitch.  Suddenly, a jolt shot up the line and I was sure the fish was going to pull the rod right out of my hand. That's the thrill of "swinging streamers" the take is never soft. I lost the jumping king after he took me out to the backing over to the American side of the river!

Swinging is a method that will put fish on the fly when other techniques are impractical, or when you just want a change of pace.  The strikes are less frequent, but I guarantee that they will be ones that will forever etch in your memory!

Indicator fishing or Indy fishing is an adaptation of the tried and true trout fishing method of utilizing an indicator to detect strikes.  It is a great way to fish smaller flies to fish that have been pounded by chuck and duck rigs and shy away from the tic…tic…tic of the slinky or split shot bouncing the bottom.   It allows adjustable drifts and lighter weights and more adaptability to various water conditions.  It will allow the use of lighter tackle and smaller tippets, thus more hook-ups? 
The set up is the same as what you use in your trout set up, only sized up to the steelhead tackle you will be using.  Indicators come in lots of different varieties and sizes.  One of my favorites that has been adapted from a trout indicator, is the Thingamabobber.  These come in larger sizes and various different colors, from bright to subtle.  I have come to like all black and all white as they offer contrast and seem to not spook fish as much as the bright colors.  The setup is simple.   Usually a 9 ft leader is set up with your fly rig.  A split shot (or two) is added about 18 inches above your top fly, and the indicator is attached to the leader about twice the depth of the water you will be fishing.  Since the Thingamabobber is adjustable, you can adjust it up and down your leader butt to adjust for various runs and holes.

Another setup that is popular is called the “right angle” rig.  This is a simple rig and is set up by starting with a 6-7 foot section of 15 to 20 pound mono in which you clinch knot a piece of indicator yarn at the end.  Cinch it down tight.   Next you will tie a length (depending on depth) of 6 or 8 lb mono with an improved clinch knot around this length of leader and cinch it down tight and pull it to the yarn at the end.  Now tie a surgeons knot of final tippet to this section of about 18 inches and tie on your fly.  At the point that the surgeon knot is tied, attach your split shot.  The knot will help keep the split shot from sliding down to your fly.  The rig should now hang at a “right angle” from the yarn fluff.  Now take and Goop up the yarn with some floatant.  Now you are ready to fish.
Indicators are not bobbers that are going to flush at the take of a fish.  Instead, they are a tool in which you can follow your drift to ensure that your fly is “dead drifting” correctly.  Cast your rig upstream about 6 – 8 feet above your target zone.  This will allow the terminal end of the rig to get down to your fishing zone before it reaches the target zone.  Now follow the indicator as the rig drifts through your target zone.  As Elmer Fudd would say..” Be vewy….vewey careful” to watch every move of the indicator.  Look for changes in drift speed, slight twitches, stops, and occasionally “flushes”.    The good indy fisherman will develop a Zen for the indicator and will learn to know when something has breathed on their fly.  Set the hook at anything that looks different!!!!!  Because your weight is not bouncing along bottom, the occurrence of snags is almost non-existent.  If there is no fish, go right back to your drift. 
If you are looking for change from the tried and true chuck and duck, and you want to break out more traditional gear, give indy fishing a try……I think you’ll like it.

Chuck and duck is by far the most popular, and arguably the most effective method in the Mid-west for catching steelhead or salmon. It is an easy rig for non-fly fisherman to use fly gear and catch fish as you're not really "casting"; more on this in a minute. The first thing that is needed is a spool of 20lb leader material, on one end, create a loop then pull off your wing spans worth of line and cut it from the spool. Take a snap swivel and thread the mono through the eye of the barrel portion of the snap swivel. Now take a barrel swivel and tie it to the end so the snap swivel will not come off. Take a two foot section of mono 6lb or higher depending on water clarity. Attach the free end of the barrel swivel to the mono. Now knot your first fly on the end of this tippet section, most fisherman use an egg fly for this, but it's not a hard and fast rule. Attach a new piece of mono to the egg about 18" long. There are a couple of ways to do this. Some people like to attach the mono to the bend of the egg fly hook. I don't like to use this method. I tie to the eye of the hook and attach it right next to the first knot. Onto this tippet section add a dropper fly: caddis, stone, etc.
Just some quick notes here, Use lighter tippet on the last section, so if you do loose a fish on the dropper fly you only have to retie that section of the rig, otherwise you will lose your whole rig and have to tie on two flies.  You can use a combination of 20lb (long section), 10lb or 8lb (first tippet), 6lb (dropper section) for your rig, again only the end fly will be lost on a snag a snagged fish etc. Unless you have stock in tippet companies and flies, this is the best way to ensure minimal loss after breaking off.
Ok you made the rig, now you have to cast it. Remember the Snap Swivel? Attach weight to the snap end. Use either pencil weight or a slinky in different weights; heavier weight should be used for faster and deeper water, and lighter weight for slower skinnier water.

Now the rig is ready to be fished. As stated earlier you don't cast it. You chuck the rig out into the river, but you duck so it does not hit you on the back of your head. Hence chuck and duck! Keep an open loop so there is less chance of getting bonked on the noggin. Cast the line slightly upstream of your intended target. Mend upstream as soon as it hits the water and let it sink so you can feel the weight ticking along the bottom. If you don’t feel it ticking bottom, you need to add more weight.  Your line should be drifting downstream and you should feel tic…..tic…tic…….tic,  and when the ticking stops, lift as it could be a fish.  If the weight is hanging up on bottom, remove some of the weight.
I have novice fishing friends that think they are fly fisherman because they use this method and I say more power to them. I have caught a lot of fish using this method, but I don't feel like I am "fly fishing".
A final parting shot is that all these types of rigs will foul hook fish! None of them will prevent it, it's the nature of the beast that will happen and this is especially true salmon fishing when there are lots of fish in the river. Learn to discern a “bite” from a snag (it’s sometimes not easy) and don’t intentionally lift your rod to snag fish.  If you are new to the sport, or you have only tried one method, try out something new on your next trip.

Publishers Note: Don Hull was instrumental as the primary editor of this article.